The Insignia docked in Montevideo at 8:00 am. From our veranda I noticed a single small peak maybe a little higher than our very own Thanksgiving Mountain. This single peak is the “Mount” for which Montevideo is named at the mouth of their “river of many fish” which also is not a river at all (contains salt water and/or brine) but a bay stretching inland for a way. Ferries cross this “river” transporting cars but not buses to Brazil. Our guide on this most delightful day was Vincento. He proudly informed us that he was a typical Uruguayan: a mix of Italian, Irish, Spanish, Portuguese, African & indigenous. His English was excellent, his sense of hummer priceless, love of his country unquestionable, political opinions many and interesting. As have been many of our guides, when he is not conducting tours, he is a teacher. Seems it is universal that teachers are underpaid and must have more than one source of income. Sad considering what is expected of them. Sad.
Back to Vincento and Uruguay. Uruguay is the second smallest country in South America. He told us not to worry if we were not aware of this and thought Uruguay was the smallest because most people didn’t even know of the smallest one. He gave us the name but I had never heard of it, so if he was not pulling our leg, you can Google it. According to Vincento, Uruguay invented soccer. They won the World Cup in 1950. Expected to see shrines up attesting to that fact but didn’t. The lack of shrines does not diminish their pride in the achievement nor Country. He also proudly confirmed Diego’s statement that Argentine’s bring their money to Uruguay banks, have second homes here, etc. Seems the money is safer here and apparently no taxes.
Montevideo is the capital city housing the majority of the country’s population. The country has been a democracy since Artigas won their independence from Spain in the late 1800s. In the center of the city is Independence Park with 33 massive palm trees signifying the number of states and a statue of Artigas upon his horse. Impressive. Photo op ensued. Across the street was a large cathedral looking building which we soon learned had been built by one of Montevideo’s founding fathers to give back to his city/country. Unfortunately, the hotel was not a success. Now it has been converted to apartments. One can live in a first floor unit (Hell) for 14,000, the second level (Purgatory) for considerably more, or the third level (Heaven) for some 350,000. Unclear whether this was $ or Pesos, annual rent or purchase. Interesting designations.
Unemployment in Montevideo is less than 1/2 of 1%. The President is elected for a five year term. As Vincento said “Better than a Monarch. If you get an idiot for President, you can vote him out in five years. A King, you must wait until he dies.” The people are extremely laid back. Never in a rush. Stroll along like there is no place in particular they need to be. Fewer ulcers here I’m guessing. The economy is good. Better than Argentina. Everything here is better than in Argentina, per Vincento. All citizens are required to vote. Those who dare to ignore this law are heavily fined. Don’t pay the fine? Wages are garnished. The Country only has approximately 15,000 homeless. Not a visible problem. Only eyesore we noted was the presence of tiny little air conditioning units hanging all over the sides of all the buildings. In this Democracy, the government pays 100% of health care and education. One catch on the education, however. One can attend University as long as they wish (Vincento tried four different degree plans before settling on education were the females outnumbered the males 4 to 1) Once you leave the University, you must repay $100 a month for 3 years, then $300 a month for the remainder of your career. No free lunch. Their income tax can be as high as 45% of their income. Something of a sliding scale details of which were not shared.
Uruguay has more cattle than people. Here there is a State Department of Meat whose function is primarily to calculate just how much meat they eat versus how much the Argentine’s eat. Always more than Argentina. Seem to have an inheirant need to outdo Argentina in everything.
Agriculture is number one industry with tourism a close second. Vincento noted that when he first started as a guide, all his charges wanted to do was take pictures. Many, many pictures of all the old cars. Now they have auto dealerships of all kinds all over the city but for a long time they resembled Cuba in terms of auto reincarnation. He then made an interesting observation: tourist come and take pictures, travelers come to learn. Be a traveler, he advised. That was not his only piece of advice. Several years ago a new school had been built somewhere in the general area of the then President’s personal home. Vincento wished to get a job at that school. Possibly a second job, not sure. He was informed that he must apply for that job to the President himself. So, search out the residence of the President he did. After getting somewhat lost he finally found his home to find it being guarded by a single security agent in the midst of a siesta. He stated his wishes to the President only to be asked why he wished to waste his greatest wealth – time. Vincento credits that President for changing his entire life, to the good. Seems most of us use our most valued asset in pursuit of money for unnecessary items at the expense of family. Fine line. We must provide essentials. Problem: definition of essentials.
The population of Uruguay is shrinking. Couples average 1.86 children. Blueberries comprise a large portion of their exports. Mostly to US. Locals don’t eat them or fish, per Vincento, too healthy. Uruguayans much prefer to eat beef that clogs their arteries and die early than fish or blueberries. No fat peoples here, just skinny meat eaters who fall over dead suddenly at an early age.
To build the national capitol, they joined with Argentina to hire an architect to design both buildings exactly alike. Argentina succeeded in completing their capitol building on time. Not Uruguay. It took them 17 years to complete theirs. The architect “didn’t have the patience to finish.” He died while it was still in progress, thus the building in Montevideo differs from that in Buenos Aires as the second architect finished it off with a Greek flare.
Vincento continued to offer up pearls of wisdom in route to our ultimate destination: La Baguala Estancia Retreat Luncheon.
To be continued. . .